With the ready availability of colored pool fittings, there is no excuse for using mismatched skimmers, drain covers, wall fittings or plastic lids. Concealing these “architectural uglies” is easy – things most pools require, but no one wants to see.
SKIMMER LIDS (and deck lids)
There is absolutely no excuse for using plastic skimmer lids. Besides being a visual distraction, they only last a few short years. For concrete, stone or pavers there are the round or square pourable lids. Their non-metallic design eliminates the requirement for bonding, electrical safety that metallic lid trays simply disregard and ignore. They are even available for most popular laminar fountains. If the deck is overlaid with a thick & dense stone, simply manufacture a lid out of stone.
Covering the deck with multiple plastic or brass drains, or worse yet linear plastic drain channels creates visual clutter. Again, there are pourable deck drain covers – available in a combo 3 & 4 inch size, 6-inch size and linear slot drains.
Why distract from the beauty of the pool with white plastic drain covers that distract from the exotic finish, pebbles or mosaic tiles? There are even drain covers available that accept troweled or tile finishes – floor returns, drain covers, channel drains and even for in-floor cleaning heads.
As with floor drains, why distract from the surface finishes with fittings that do not match or protrude from the wall? There are a myriad of flush mounted and colored fittings to match almost any color finish. For those finishes that do not come close to matching the standard colors, there are clear fittings that blend with any finish color. With a little bit of effort these items can be concealed with minimal expense.
https://abtdrains.com/…/precast-trench-drain/vector-drain (We use these and tile over the rims, leaving just an ungrouted joint – super clean look) http://www.acodrain.us
Swimming Pool Expert Witness
10 Steps To Avoid Irregular Pool Plaster
The cause of irregular plaster hydration and streaking can be prevented with a little forward thinking.
1. Prepare the shell for plaster a few days in advance. Do not rely on the plaster crew to seal the shell on plaster day.
2. Chip out and repair every weeper and wet spot. Water flowing in, will be water flowing out.
3. Depressurize the pipes & remove ALL caps on the return lines and light conduits. Allow the water to completely drain out. Dripping water on fresh plaster will cause streaks.
4. Set the return fittings and seal around all of the penetrations with a cement material (non-shrink grout/hydraulic cement). Plaster is not waterproof (per National Plaster Council). Waterstop rings are highly suggested.
5. Using plaster to seal around penetrations can cause a visible halo effect, because of the excess thickness, white plaster patch or hydration variations.
6. Applying a bond coat to the entire shell will ensure the plaster hydrates evenly (yes, even new shells). The density of the concrete pool shell varies throughout, and so does it’s absorption of water. Bond coating will even everything out.
7. Fill the pool, starting from the deepest area first. Filling the spa first, may allow water to flow backwards through the plumbing and exit the pool lines. This will cause streaking on the walls.
8. An old gym sock taped on the end of the hose captures any sediment in the water and prevents the hose fitting from making any marks. This applies to plastic & brass fittings.
9. Do not use a water truck until there is a substantial pool of water in the basin. The cascading water flow can easily erode fresh plaster.
10. A pillowcase taped on the end of a large fill line can be used to capture sediment.
By following these simple steps, you can ensure you’ve done everything to guarantee an even finish appearance.
Swimming Pool Expert Witness
12 Reasons To Use An Electronic Auto-Fill on Swimming Pools
Electronic auto-fills are slightly more expensive, but they offer important features required by edge vessels. They are far superior to float or bobber auto-fills for a number of reasons.
1. Electronic fills can activate huge fill lines for larger pools and water parks. The 24vac can activate any size irrigation valve. On a typical edge pool, I use a 1” fill line (compared to 1/4” on bobbers). A bypass line can provide for manual filling.
2. A maximum fill timer protects against catastrophic failures & overfilling. In the event there’s a pool leak, the auto-fill will cease. It will reset in 24 hours or when the power is turned off/on.
3. There is an activation delay, so minor waves from bathers or wind surges don’t cause needless filling.
4. There is no annoying hissing from the bather surges or waves.
5. There is not a large well of stagnant water for algae to grow in. By incorporating an overflow, a standpipe can periodically self-flush.
6. The activation delay eliminates frequent water hammer in the plumbing.
7. A 2” stand pipe is easier to hide in a beam. In fact with some ingenuity, you can incorporate an overflow line as well.
8. The fill tolerance is more precise – excellent for smaller or shallow vessels.
9. They are available with a high level sensor to activate edge pumps if bathers forget.
10. They can be placed on a relay and activated on a schedule. This is beneficial if the property is on a well, storage system or has an irrigation booster pump.
11. The fill line can be plumbed into a return line (non-edge vessels).
12. They are applicable to surge tanks of any depth. Bobber auto-fills are restricted by the depth of the well housing or the length of persons arm.
Sensor standpipes should be set 3-6 inches above the floor of the catch basin. The sensor tips should be set at the 12” minimum operating level. The fill line should ALWAYS be in the surge tank/catch basin on edge pools. Placing the fill line low on the end wall eliminates splashing & noise.
I’ve only had one issue in 20 years – a leaf got stuck across the probes and the unit failed to sense a low water condition. Now I place a perforated suction cover on standpipe opening to prevent debris entry.
Swimming Pool Expert Witness
Applying Shotcrete The Right Way
These are just two of the many examples of the proper way to apply shotcrete. Pouring or shooting the entire floor first or minimally shooting three feet of the floor and the cove.
This allows rebound and trimmings from the wall to fall on a hardened flooor and be scooped out. Keeping your hand from covering the top part of the nozzle allows the paste and aggregate to stay intact.
Covering the nozzle partially separates the past from the aggregate. If you follow at least these two simple rules that are mandated by the ACI and ASA you will be ahead of your competition in ensuring your client has a shell that will last.
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